DeanB Posted March 10, 2014 Posted March 10, 2014 Here's the thing. My standard 1.8 K has done 84 thousand miles and will not go on forever. I have been thinking about trying to build up a spare for when the time comes, to spread the cost and so on. It would mean buying a second hand engine, of course, and I would want the bottom end balanced. I would like it to make 160 - 170 bhp without very high revs and be torquey and tractable and so on. What engine would the MLOC experts recommend I buy? I fancy a vvc for the head casting but wouldn't want to keep the heavy vvc mech. If this is a wise choice, are there different vvc engine types? What needs swapping when an engine is reconditioned? What spec would be best - inc. pistons, cams, plenums, throttle bodies etc? Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Alex B Posted March 10, 2014 Posted March 10, 2014 Dean, im no expert on the matter but theres lots of useful information available here that might give you some guidance on what route you want to go down.http://www.dvapower.co.uk/ http://kengine.dvapower.com/
@ndy Posted March 10, 2014 Posted March 10, 2014 Dean, Preference would be to start with a 160 spec engine, These have different pistons capable of handling +160 bhp. However if your going to fit new pistons then any VVC will be OK as they have larger valves and it's a simple job to remove the VVC mech and throw in some hot cams. As Alex states, DVA website is full of great info...... Andy.
John FISH Curtis Posted March 10, 2014 Posted March 10, 2014 Start with a VVC, ditch the setup add cams and verniers. Omega pistons if budget permits. New exhaust manifold and sports cat. When I had Jenvey DTH TB's fitted on a previous K Series project, I lost a lot of torque. Don't forget an Emerald and RR session to setup (££££) and if you have TB's , an airbox, filter, FSE fuel regulator.
Martin R Posted March 10, 2014 Posted March 10, 2014 Dean, it just so happens i have some spares if you are on a budget I think at the last count i had 5 VVC heads. You need 160 pistons a good crank, lightened fly wheel, full balance. Cams of your choice, new liners, rings etc. However budget for an Emerald and mapping. You do not need forged pistons at 170 bhp. I expect i have most of what you need in my loft You can also stick with hydraulic followers. I have just bought a EU2 VVC engine 35K at the right price. The EU2 head might be a better starting point for porting. The cutouts on the 160 EU3 head get very close to the firering. Edit, you dont need a FPR as you can squash the old regulator slightly to up the pressure to 3.2 bar ish. crude, cheap and effective.
AlanS1 Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 Martin R - Where do you manage to get hold of all this stuff? Similar to Dean i am on the lookout, but just for a bottom end that i can rebuild/refresh ready for my winter project.
fentuz Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 Dean, That's the sort of thing i looked at. As some said, start with a vvc 2nd generation may be a god start however, they start to have a few more miles. They are about £400/600. Although forged pistons are not needed, I read that the trophy pistons are becoming more expensive than the forged ones. If you were to start from a older vvc and wanted to fully rebuild it, you might want to check the cost with floating pin mod. Head work is good but for VVC heads, i am still wondering if it is really a game changer considering the expense. vvc and motorsport(vhpd) heads have similar flow and the vhpd allows great power. I guess martin would have some thoughts. Again, from reading, you could go for cam such as newman ph3 with high lift or piper 1320. These seems to give about 165/180 @ around 6500rpm depending of ancillaries. They don't seem to be horrible at low rpm (2000 to 3000rpm) which is what people moan about regarding piper 285. For vvc head, the inlet camshaft is about £210 and a little cheaper for the exhaust. The head blanking plates arse about £130. The valve springs are supposed to be swapped. Although the vvc spring would not crush with higher lift cam, i understand their rate is too low and could cause issues with the valves at high rev. Now, i don't know what the rev range is. Is it like the Std piston which are supposed to be fine up to 6.5/6.8 krpm? So you know, the old PTP RS165 kit was made from: a vulcan heads (similar to vhpd), an inlet cam very similar to the 1320 a outlet cam similar to the 270 Pulleys Ancillaries. Yes, I am waiting for wife approval to go for such configuration
stockhome Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 I have been putting alot of thought into this subject as i have a spare s2 engine sitting in the garage. I have spoken to Martin, Kiwi Rog at sabre heads and Mr Webster at length about this My plan (when i get some spare cash) is to get the bottom end rebuilt bearings etc with trophy pistons, matched rods (Rog recons the trophy pistons are good up to 190), new liners, lightened flywheel, new clutch, all balanced. The top end i will go for either is KR1 as per Phil S1 http://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/forum/topic/61378-sabre-heads-kr1-plus-newman-phase-2-cams/?hl=sabre Or the more expensive KRB spec (Some bedtime reading below Dean) http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=374544&page=1#pid6348320 http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=293765&page=1 The plan is to run the engine on a plenum untill i have the funds to upgrade to throttle bodies. the torque curve on the KRB with throttle bodies is what attracts me to this setup.
Dandi Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 I'm in the same position I'd like a torquey engine around 180bhp at the moment I can't afford the DTHTB setup I think I'll keep the plenum along with the VVC mech and in the future I'll ditch it and I'll fit some DTHTBs maybe the new fabulous one from eliseparts the only downside is that I have to add the VVC wires to my existing harness and remove the in the future
stockhome Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 The eliseparts curved trumpet kit is amazing but is seriously pricey, but its the best way to go without cutting into the boot very tidy install Carbon Fibre Airbox.Carbon Fibre 135mm long curved trumpets.Pipercross Air filter Black anodised aluminium base plate100mm Black 4 Ply Silicon Induction Hose.3 x 100mm Stainless Steel Hose Clamps.Two Ply Smooth Wall Silicon Flexi Hose for Air Inlet.ABS Vacuum formed Intake Vent Cover £649.95 Direct to Head Throttle Bodies 599.95 Fuel Rail £249.95 Fitting Kit modified boot £129.95 Breather kit £174.95 Total excluding vat £1804.75
Dandi Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 And it gives a really nice torque too hope to find it in the classifieds a day
stockhome Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 And it gives a really nice torque too hope to find it in the classifieds a day You and me both
DeanB Posted March 11, 2014 Author Posted March 11, 2014 Thanks guys this has made for good reading. Martin do you think a standard vvc head on fairly mild cams and plenum could make 170 bhp? ps I might need to raid your loft!
fentuz Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 Dean, Vvc head and mild cam 270 finally properly set up is what i have and it gives 150 max. To go toward 160ish, it is 633 For 170ish, 1320 And toward 185, 285
Martin R Posted March 11, 2014 Posted March 11, 2014 Martin R - Where do you manage to get hold of all this stuff? Similar to Dean i am on the lookout, but just for a bottom end that i can rebuild/refresh ready for my winter project. Give me a shout and i will see whats in the loft. Dean if a Sport 160 can make about 160 ish. I dont see why a VVC cant make 170 on a standard throttle body. The MS2 head ( VHPD ) and the VVC flow very similar when ported. Its only at extreme porting that the MS2 flows more IIRC. You can port a standard head to 200 bhp with bigger valves etc. However its a lot of work apparently so you may as well start with a VHPD or VVC.
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